Best shoulder length sling climbing reddit . As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Sep 25, 2020 · What length is best? Slings tend to come in lengths of 30cm, 60cm, 120cm, 240cm, and even 480cm long. My standard draw arsenal is 6 alpine draws, 5 single length and 2 double lengths over my shoulder. 5 can vary from 0. The peak design strap is adjustable length and is long enough to wear over a shoulder instead of just around the neck. In general you will find the 60cm and 120cm slings to be the most common and widely used lengths. while youre on thr subject, i highly recommend getting a few shoulder length slings and putting a single non locker on each one. ) give you greater extension for reducing rope drag or positioning pro; a perfect size for building two-bolt, fixed anchors, they Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. it depends on where you're climbing. that way, if you want to extend a piece, you just clip that sling to the biner thats already on the cam, and clip the rope to the biner on the sling. Sep 19, 2019 · Rappel extensions started becoming in vogue around 2006 after a climbing accident in Wyoming where a friction hitch backup was likely tended or pushed down by the device causing the climber to lose control and eventually rappel off the end of the rope. Besides keeping the stands an equal length, this method makes it easier to rack multiple slings over your shoulder. I normally bring 6-8 alpine draws for clipping bolts, nuts and other protection that requires two carabiners. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. So a 60cm sling is made from a 120cm piece of webbing that has had its ends sewn together. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. When you need a certain sling, you can simply unclip the carabiner from one of the two ends and pull it. Double-length slings (120cm/48 in. com Sep 28, 2018 · I suspect you're relying on JHealy's test results on his (well used) skinny slings. Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. 1). stuff like a compass, map, multitool etc which would be of use for hiking largely isn’t used in the same way as it is in my (limited) experience mountaineering. The ideal is really more about what you are working to accomplish. I think the reality is though, you don’t need stuff to hand in the same way you would for stuff like hiking/rambling etc. Sling Length. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. While in the pack to-and-from the crag, I take all the shoulder length slings and stack them together and tie a big overhand knot in the middle with them. Climbing pack Aug 10, 2018 · The Mammut Dyneema Contact Sling comes in a 30cm long draw, 60cm shoulder length, 120cm double length, 180cm triple length, and 240cm quadruple length, all of which have an 8mm width. Jun 3, 2022 · To extend your device, use a double-shoulder-length sling or your personal anchor system (PAS). If you plan on working easy'ish long pitches (ie. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. These dimensions are the measure of the sewn loop. it's dangerous. With that in mind, a lighter sling tends to need a projectile with more weight in order to get good swing and distance. I rack my draws on the sling and gear on my harness. So, friction knot > carabiner > friction knot. If you already have some QDs from sport climbing, you can bring those, but I rarely do. Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. And yes we are scared of falling. Time isn't the enemy; same as the deal with climbing ropes: per Pit Shubert's paper, it's USE, not AGE. Clip the sling to the two bolts, then pull the center down to equalize, then do an overhand or 8 on a bight to create a master point. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. If you want distance, you are best served with a longer sling made of light material like paracord. They’re sized to fit neatly over one shoulder and give approximately 24 inches of extension when clipped with a biner on each end. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. I find this is an easy way to keep them accessible even with the other slings on top. These are discretionary, but useful for alleviating rope-drag on wandering routes and the occasional slung feature. If you dont have the money or the strength to spare for a shoulder sling and a double shoulder length sling, butbyou have the money and strength for an extra draw, you are asking for trouble or a bad time. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. I have 6 alpines (60cm/ shoulder length sling, Camp Photons on both sides), and my main partners have at least 6 if not more. I’ve never understood why everyone seems to place a cam then clips the draw to the cam sling rather than just preload say a bunch of double length slings with one biner to the racking biner and essentially lightening the rack and making it easier/more efficient to clip and continue climbing. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. I get where you’re coming from OP as it does seem like they’d be of use to carry stuff that you need to hand. Some people I know like to extend the belay loop on their harness with a shoulder length sling, clip their atc to the top of that for rapping, and put the auto-block on their belay loop so that it is load bearing. I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I would use the 1in tubular webbing. I carry 21' of 7mm cord because i feel it can handle all of these applications and gives me the best options for extending belays, finding comfortable stances, etc. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together 1. I also really like to keep 1 or 2 lengths of cord, still 6 mm, About the same loop length of a shoulder length sling because I could use that as an Emergency runner if I need to. Check for burrs or any other aspects that could damage a sling before making an alpine draw with them. On here sits all the extra stuff. Longer slings are more effective at reducing rope drag than a quickdraw, but are also heavier and bulkier. The climbing rope between the two friction knots is slightly slack and the inexpensive sling takes the load over the abrasive edge. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so Sep 1, 2023 · The most commonly used length is 60cm (or 24"), which is commonly referred to as “shoulder-length,” and most frequently used to extend a piece of climbing protection to reduce rope drag on the leader. Then I'll have 6 shoulder length slings with a single carabiner slung on my shoulder to use for clipping cams since they already have carabiners on them. Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things; One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint 63 votes, 51 comments. Last thing you need is your biners catching on slings and gear as you try to release them. Because both of your ascenders are toothed ascenders take special care to make sure your setup is auto feeding, you really don't want to whip onto an ascender, both because ascenders cut ropes at like 4kn of force, and also because you will fuck up the sheath of your 1. No bail gear? Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. Posted by u/WildWilly29 - 5 votes and 29 comments And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. Aug 31, 2020 · Here are the best climbing slings and runners: Sterling Dyneema Sling; Petzl ST’ANNEAU Dyneema Sling; Sterling Nylon Sling; Mammut Contact Sling; Trango Low Bulk Sling; Metolius Monster Open Sling; Metolius 18mm Open Nylon Sling; Black Diamond Dynex Runner; Black Diamond Nylon Runner; Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best I rack all my shoulder length slings with a single carabiner, I then have 2-4 loose wire gate carabiners on the back of my harness so I can add them to one of my slings if I’m placing a nut Reply reply Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. Slings come in a variety of lengths, widths and weights. Depends on your local climbing area. Useful for clipping into anchors, switching to rappel quickly without ever being being unprotected, and great for multiple raps for the above two reasons. The rappel extension helps eliminate this issue Sep 30, 2016 · Personally I prefer longer QDs (18cm and 25cm) to shorter (10cm or 12cm) ones and try to carry all three sizes (e. I climb in the Gunks where there is a fair mix of tree anchors, bolted anchors, and gear anchors. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. keeps them from snagging the gear in the bag or making huge rat's nests. e. But seriously, don't try to wing this. For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket(s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. You can use a bungee or a double length sling or two shoulder length slings. So don't worry about gear just yet (though you'll eventually want at least two Petzl ascenders, one daisy chain, one double length shoulder sling, one aider, one descending device and a prusik loop). Also, try to rack gear on your harness as you are cleaning in the same way that you would rack it when you are leading. ) are a useful length—roughly 2 or 3 times longer than most quickdraws; they're a good length to wear over a shoulder or as an alpine quickdraw. Remember you can also cut some cost by slinging single length slings with biner over your shoulder for cam placements. Another method that works in a pinch is to use two slings or a Prusik and a long sling with a friction knot. It's also the standard alpine draw length. , 25cm x2 + 18cm x6 + 12cm x6) + at least one shoulder length sling + random binners to have as much diverse rack as possible. Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. ) are a useful length—roughly 2 or 3 times longer than most quickdraws; they're a good length to wear over a shoulder or as an alpine You will find that using a single sling for pas and for other purposes is not practical as you will spend unnecessary time tying and untying knots rather than climbing! And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. Clove/8/Bowline/etc. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. I like to use a shoulder length with a figure 8 in the middle. This is my preferred method. , a couple spare non-locking biners for anchors or using all your cams - and learn to use clove hitches and rely less on the PAS. Clip the other two biners around the lower section (should be 4 strands) then rope goes into those biners. Posted by u/stochastica - 7 votes and 48 comments Grab 10-15 shoulder-length slings (60cm) and 20-30 non-locking biners. 1. Including but not limited to- using three biners one 2 draws. See full list on outdoorgearlab. thus, you dont have to feel like you wasting a biner every time you clip a draw to the cam's sling. Standard slings are 48-inch sewn loops, but individual runners can vary a few inches, to better fit larger- or smaller-chested climbers. If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. No sling on thumb loop action here. I’ve got a neck strap and a wrist strap and the ability to swap back and forth super quickly is really nice. 3 to 0. 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Nice haul! Now you just need a couple more trad draws, a few more nuts or offsets (unless you climb south western US) 2-3 single length slings (for extending cams without wasting a draw, or anchor building) 1 double length sling for bolt anchors/misc. 2-4x 120cm ('double-length') slings. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. So I've made several slings with different material. Mar 13, 2024 · Single-length slings should be the mainstay of your sling collection. Then I take my double lengths, fold in half, and then overhand them all together. Really get proper instruction and train for it in the gym. This method works even if you rack double-length slings under single-length slings. I keep these racked over a shoulder, under my 60cm slings like this. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. Girth hitched through waist and leg loop points so my belay loop stays open. Grab 10-15 shoulder-length slings (60cm) and 20-30 non-locking biners. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. the knot might snag. Will deploy… 144 votes, 22 comments. I use the auto-block with only a couple loops, because the number in the video makes it really slow to rap, but definitely start slow. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. Slings, doesn't really matter. Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. Yeah, this is probably the best way. Girth-hitch the sling through the two tie-in points on your harness and snug it up, keeping the bar tack close to your belay loop (fig. g. Very versatile edit for clarity: The smaller your friction knot diameter is the more it Bites. You got it! Single length, shoulder length, and 60cm all refer to the same size. 40m+), shoulder/body slings are the shizzle. That's 12 pieces of gear for a pitch, without including the anchor or any that you could clip directly. The home of Climbing on reddit. Seconding Peak Design. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Wirenose (or equivalent) if you can. Or, the same solutions- a sling and 2 draws. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. If there are bolted anchors just get a double shoulder length sling and 4 locking biners. The color of the sling serves as a guide for its size. Fold it over on itself and clip the other end of the sling into your belay loop with a locker. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. If you want to be cheap, you can inspect your sport draw biners and see if they're alright to use for the alpine draws. But I have countered with my own test results on skinny slings which see very little use, and they were still going strong after 5+ years. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. Your illustration is perfectly safe, but way more complex than it needs to be. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. pnepx ljipyo omq vwssw bqcj axtku tptece suowns kss eokrf