Caribou skin parka. Eskimos use a variety of methods to stay warm in igloos.

Caribou skin parka . For deep cold and storms, a second parka could be worn over the first, with the fur side out. And sinew from caribou tendons, in single or braided strands, has been used to make nets to catch ptarmigan and fish, as lashing for hunting tools, and as a strong and durable thread. 1890–1925 Iqluligaarjuk (Chesterfield Inlet), Nunavut, Canada Parka: caribou skin, glass beads, stroud cloth, caribou teeth, and metal pendants; needlecase: ivory, seal hide; carrying strap with toggles: caribou hide, ivory Sep 28, 2024 · A child's outfit made of rabbit skin with a beaded belt, a large sled, beaded mitts, a moose skin purse and a caribou skin parka and boots, among other items, are all back in the place they were Alaska Native Made Eskimo Man Doll Inuit Caribou Hide Face Brown Beaver Fur Parka 20" Tall (2. Feathered auk skin with wolverine ruff and wolf cuffs and trim. Layers: Inner layer (fur inward), outer layer (fur outward), maximizing heat retention and wind protection. In 1974 we constructed a factory in Mountain View, Alberta, Canada, for making sheepskin and leather items. The sewers visited five village schools where students learned to sew and then stitched part of the parka. Our parkas are the same traditional styles Canada's Northern peoples have been wearing for hundreds of years. The traditional itchalik was a dome-shaped tent, constructed with a willow pole frame and sheathed in caribou skins—materials that were readily available in the Brooks Range. The clothes are double-layered to provide a highly-insulating barrier that holds in heat, utilizing the air pockets the fur from the Caribou contain. Despite extensive oral testimony on the effectiveness of skin garments from Inuit elders, as well as written records produced by Arctic explorers as early as the 18th century, little research was performed on Inuit clothing until the 1990s. Primarily, the first thing about it is the texture of the clothing. org and *. 05 Feb 22, 2021 · On top of this, caribou skin actually has hollow hair follicles that contain air bubbles which also insulate, proving that caribou was extremely important to the Inuit people. The hood was trimmed with dog fur. Cat. Middle and high school students learned five different stitches. One village constructed a sleeve, another village created the yoke, and so on. Alaskan Eskimo Girl Native Garb Caribou Skin Parka With Fur & Beadwork Postcard. [1] The earliest parkas were made from caribou and seal hides, sewn together using sinew or animal gut. In winter men, women and children wore skin parkas (qusungat) over an inner garment (atigi). For several years we made coats and accessories for the whol Oct 30, 2014 · A twenty-first century technology has helped a group of skin sewers achieve a dream, the creation of a traditionally styled caribou-skin parka. Burnham traced back the swimming caribou, the separation of skin from meat, the carving of a skin scraper from the caribou leg bone, and steps in drying and preparing the caribou skin for clothing production. The integral hood characteristic of a caribou-skin parka was also superior in comparison to the detachable hood of the army uniform. Arctic communities value caribou skin for its exceptional warmth and breathability. Nov 3, 2024 · Women's traditional caribou skin outfit with amauti parka, trousers, mitts and long boots with side pouches. Visit Our Website To See Our Complete Selection Of Tanned Furs And Hides For Sale From Glacier Wear Jul 2, 2019 · Historically, reindeer/caribou fur parka did not last more than two or three years with considerable use. 99) from Yupiget in Cape Dezhnev, Siberia; an Inuvialuit male parka of marmot (Hc. They were skillfully tailored using many individual pieces of skin (usually caribou) chosen for the thickness of the hide and qualities of the hair. I ended up giving them all away. The meat was my diet and the broth was my drink… Without caribou meat, what would I eat?” Rachel Riley, Nunamiut Elder Jan 24, 2023 · I met a local from Point Hope working on the North slope when I was younger. Caribou skin is a good insulator, as caribou hair is hollow and traps in heat against the body. These hollow hairs also make caribou skin clothing more buoyant in water. Dec 28, 2010 · This finely crafted and elaborately beaded Inuit tuilli, or woman’s inner parka, was made from caribou skin for the mother of a newborn baby. Sep 28, 2016 · The original caribou skin parka is one of several items believed to have been procured by Adolf Etholen, a Finnish man, in the 19th century. We apologize for the mistake. With a green and orange wool tie for hood. , 2005). 414), from Mackenzie River in the Northwest Territories of Canada; and an Inupiat of caribou in clothing and shelter (e. Caribou-skin clothing is widely recognized as a central component of this socio-ecological relationship among Inuit and other North American peoples 54K subscribers in the fashionhistory community. Nov 2, 2021 · They have slept under caribou skin blankets and have sheltered in caribou skin tents. The Caribou Inuit tribes first used these to stay warmer in the harsh Canadian Arctic weather, they used materials such as seal or caribou skin and often waterproofed them using fish oil. Handmade of caribou skin and beads. beef was incorrectly quoted in “Caribou a Healthy Check out our caribou skin parka selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our clothing shops. The construction of these garments follows a sophisticated two-layer system, where the inner layer's fur faces inward to trap body heat, while the outer layer's fur faces outward to create an additional insulating barrier. Processing skins is a precise skill. Subjects wearing the two caribou-skin outfits. They were worn traditionally by women to carry their babies but fathers or male caregivers could wear them as well. Caribou hides have also provided rawhide line for making snowshoes and sleds. Medium: Caribou hide/skin, wool cloth, glass bead/beads, caribou tooth/teeth, metal items, walrus ivory, coin/coins, ammunition cartridge/cartridges, brass bell/bells, brass button/buttons, hide thong/babiche, thread, sinew The amauti can be made from a variety of materials including sealskin, caribou skin or duffle cloth (a thick woollen cloth) with a windproof outer shell. See this Curator's corner video to find out more. Mar 18, 2020 · The integral hood characteristic of a caribou-skin parka was also superior in comparison to the detachable hood of the army uniform. Siberian Yupik. Mar 4, 1996 · Girls's qulitaq or parka made of yearling caribou skin, with hood; square hems back and front, longer at back. May 20, 2023 · While its design has evolved over time, the parka is more than just a piece of clothing; it is a symbol of Inuit identity, survival, and innovation. org Drawings by Hanna Sholl from Coloring Alutiiq Atkuk–Parka Natural A-Grade Reindeer Hide Throw Rug New House Gift Nordic Caribou Reindeer Leather Farmhouse Decor Ideas Taxidermy Reindeer Skin Fur (2. Caribou skin, with its hollow fur fibers, traps warm air close to the body, creating an effective barrier against the cold. They average 45 inches by 50 inches for reindeer skins with legs and 50 inches by 45, inches for reindeer hides without legs. ” What Burnham meant was that it was more practical to use one caribou skin to make a pullover-like garment, rather than the three required to construct a coat with sleeves and a frontal opening. Nunamiut hunter Simon Paneak, wearing caribou skin parka, pants, and boots . Sz 1x. Because women now spend the winter in town, while the men hunt without them, few women now bother making caribou skin parkas for themselves. The most basic item is the parka -- the heavy outer jacket with the fur facing Reindeer hide parka with dog fur trim around the face, Alaskan Iñupiaq. 00 each, our gorgeous Finland Reindeer Furs, also called Caribou Hide, Skin, Fur come in a variety of colors from dark brown and tan to grays with whites. Feb 2, 2021 · The bird skin short parka (above) contrasts with this women's long fancy parka from Western Alaska, which is made of different kinds of animal fur. Jan 17, 2018 · Your traditional caribou or seal skin parka is already bulky, so top it off with the lion-meets-angry-frilled-necked-lizard look! The most spectacular of all ruffs, a “sunburst” ruff, can measure three times the diameter of the wearer’s head! His parka —a hooded jacket invented by Eskimos—was made of caribou skin and worn with the fur inside. Women's traditional caribou skin outfit with amauti parka, trousers, mitts and long boots with side pouches. Medium: Parka: caribou skin, glass beads, stroud cloth, caribou teeth, and metal pendants; needlecase: ivory, seal hide; carrying strap with toggles: caribou hide, ivory Get the app Explore museums and play with Art Transfer, Pocket Galleries, Art Selfie, and more If you're seeing this message, it means we're having trouble loading external resources on our website. The parka may have been collected in the early 19th century during the search for the Northwest Passage. Skin clothing is preferred for winter wear, especially for Inuit who make their living outdoors in traditional occupations such as hunting and trapping, or modern work like scientific research. The back has similar roundels, two vertical lines of chevrons, and horizontal lines at the shoulders A summary review such as this can point out only a few of the many strengths of this publication. Jan 1, 2013 · PDF | On Jan 1, 2013, Bernadette Driscoll Engelstad published PHARAND, Sylvie, 2012 Caribou Skin Clothing of the Igloolik Inuit, Iqaluit, Inhabit Media, 198 pages (review) | Find, read and cite Traditional Arctic clothing consists of two layers of caribou skin garments. 5k) $ 79. Jun 24, 1994 · Parka, of caribou skin, with mosaic in white skin [puki], also figurative patterns and strips of red cotton? cloth tied to the garment. Unlike the parka, however, the skin in mukluks is sewn with the fur on the inside, making a nice, soft, warm shoe that will resist the wet conditions of the snow and ice in the Arctic. A wolf or wolverine fur ruff around the hood created a little pool of warmth that protected the wearer’s exposed face. Join Our Caribou Skin Clothing introduction Course level 1. 02-B456 Auk skin parka, St. ## **" INUK IN CARIBOU SKIN PARKA (**Qulittaq**)"** ## **CHESTERFIELD INLET (IGLULIGAARJUK), NUNAVUT** ** Date ** : 1903 - 1904 ** Douglas Moodie ** Jul 25, 2023 · An anorak is typically a hooded, waterproof, pull-over jacket, while a parka is a longer, weatherproof jacket with a fur-lined hood. Community photographs, taken in 1972 by Sylvie Pharand and in 2011 by Annie Desilets, illustrate the evolution in clothing forms in caribou fur and imported Nov 10, 2022 · The history of the Parka – a traditional caribou Inuit style. Caribou Skin. His parka —a hooded jacket invented by Eskimos—was made of caribou skin and worn with the fur inside. C. The fringe at the bottom keeps the wind out. Caribou Trails 2012 *2012 Correction notes from the editor* The photo of the gentleman on page 5 in the caribou skin parka is Nathan Hadley, Sr. - K7NNE9 from Alamy's library of millions of high resolution stock photos, illustrations and vectors. Add to Favorites skin hide rug, Caribou hide, prime Reindeer Caribou Fur Pelt Hide Rug Blanket For Sale. g. Qaliluk (qaliluk sg qaliluuk dual qaliluut pl in Yup'ik, qalilurrlugar in Cup'ig) is man's hoodless caribou-skin or reindeer-skin parka. Jul 16, 2022 · The Arctic people's caribou-skin parka and the coffin in the shape of an African eagle are artistic treasures from the past. Aug 31, 2018 · The Canadian Museum of History’s coat, on view in the NGC's Canadian and Indigenous Galleries, is made of mammal sinew, caribou fur, mammal wool and caribou skin. We have no factory. They were awesome but like you said, the caribou continually sheds. The edge of the hood would have been finished with a ruff or fringe of fur from animals such Sep 11, 2019 · Originally created by the Caribou Inuit to keep warm in the Canadian arctic, the parka was originally made from seal or caribou skin and often coated with fish oil for waterproofing. 95 c1970s UnP Postcard Alaskan Eskimo Girl, Caribou Skin Parka Family-owned and operated, Caribou Clothes began as a very small enterprise, manufacturing sheep skin coats and accessories in Vancouver, B. Squirrel-skin parka (uulungiiq in Yup'ik) is a parka decorated with a fringe of squirrel bellies (uulungak). Widely regarded as the best extreme-cold outerwear one can buy, with the power of innovation and tradition combined. Caribou skin is lightweight yet incredibly warm, making it ideal for Arctic conditions. From Baker Lake, Eskimo Point and Hikoligjuaq, west of Hudson Bay. at zippered structures (even though fully closed), the caribou-skin clothing evaded such heat leaks by lacking such structures, because it is donned over the head. The caribou-skinned parka is a fascinating piece. Sep 11, 2019 · Originally created by the Caribou Inuit to keep warm in the Canadian arctic, the parka was originally made from seal or caribou skin and often coated with fish oil for waterproofing. Each parka is assigned a number, a pattern is made, then it is hand cut and sewn in the home of a seamstress around Great Slave Lake. In modern fashion, these terms are often used interchangeably to refer to a weatherproof jacket with a hood. The woman's outer parka ( amauti) was adapted to carry infants and young children in a pouch on the back. Juanita Taylor Oct. Woman's parka. 14. [92] [104] [141] [142] Traditional skin clothing is also preferred for special occasions like drum dances, weddings, and holiday festivities. Etholen first came to Alaska in 1818, arriving in Sitka. At the heart of this project was the team of sewers. Fur mitts, sometimes with braided strings that attach to the parka, help keep hands warm. 99. 96. Helge Ingstad photo “Caribou meat is our meat since I was born. From Baker Lake, Eskimo Point and Hikoligjuaq, west of Hudson B Nov 6, 2024 · Nearly all traditional Inuit clothing relies on animal hides, particularly caribou and sealskin, which provide exceptional insulation in the harsh Arctic climate. This makes caribou skin ideal for enduring the frigid Arctic temperatures. I used to keep all my hides when I hunted caribou and get them tanned. The inner layer has the fur turned inwards towards the skin, while the outer layer has the fur turned outwards. The mother kept her baby protected from the harsh Arctic weather in the warmth of her parka by carrying the baby in a special carrying pouch at the back of the parka. [23] Vintage 1970s Caribou Fur Hood Parka Hunting Jacket Camping Hiking Outdoors Extreme Cold Weather (100) $ 30. This parka has contrasting mosaic-work made of the white belly skin of a young caribou. One particular set of clothes could easily have skins from 20+ individual animals from 5 different species. A parka, like the related anorak, is a type of coat with a hood, often lined with fur or faux fur. The curved flaps, front and rear, are characteristic of Arctic women's clothing. Caribou Trails 2013. Using what was learned from the trip, teams of sewers traveled to rural Kodiak schools to lead workshops on skin sewing and work with community members to produce pieces of a caribou skin parka. Oct 29, 2013 · When cutting caribou skin for a parka, for example, an Inuit seamstress will try to line up the skin so that the parka mimics the body parts of caribou as accurately as possible. And sinew from caribou tendons, in single or braided strands, have been used to make nets to catch ptarmigan and fish, as lashing for hunting tools, and as a strong and durable thread. Vintage; Vintage Pure Wool Coat Parka Fur Lined Hood Snow Igloo 2 Way Zipper Shell Made in Canada Inuvik Parka Enterprise Arctic 70s 80s Nov 28, 2021 · A beautiful Caribou skin amauti (woman’s parka) with extensive seed bead designs from the Igloolik or Baffin Island Inuit (Image: R Fortuna, Wikimedia). 122cm long (hood extended) x 79cm wide (sleeves down). The skin was my clothes. I was raised with it. Vintage Caribou Mountaineering Lightweight Jacket 1990s Hiking Windbreaker Size S Jacket Outdoors Jacket GIft for her gift for him patagonia; Faux Leopard Reversible All Weather Coat by dennis basso. by the Finns over a parka design. This introduction will guide you through working with reindeer hides, leading to the creation of a final parka. A place for historical garments, past patterns, illustrations, demonstrations, perukes, petticoats… Sep 30, 2005 · Winter clothing for men and women was similar; only the outer parka differed. 2. Caribou Trails 2014. The front depicts a figure, brown on white, two white hands and three roundels, each with white caribou ( puki ) thongs. Lawrence Island, Alaska. 95 $ 203. Opens in a new window or tab. Unlike the man's parka ( qulittaq), the amauti was made with thinner fur to make movement easier and also had a larger hood. org Drawings by Hanna Sholl from Coloring Alutiiq Atkuk–Parka - Caribou skin parka, - Jacket made from sea mammal gut, - fur mittens, - man's outer trousers, man's inner trousers, - women's stockings, - snow goggles, - men's parka, - women's parka with large hood Like the parka above, these mukluks are made of animal skin – usually caribou or seal. Woman's parka made of ground squirrel fur , lined with quilted cotton and decorated with white fur at wrists, bottom hem and front. #1985. Add to Favorites Reindeer Hide Cloak | Authentic A pocket of insulating air is caught between the body and the two layers of clothing. Apr 14, 2015 · Elijah Kakinya standing next to willow pole frame for caribou skin tent . Evidence of fur and skin garments in circumpolar communities date back thousands of years. The back of the parka has an amaut or pouch for carrying a baby. [142] [143] Caribou Trails 2015. Imported from Nomadic Laplanders of Finland, Select Quality Fur, Extra Thick Hair, Soft Leather. Jan 7, 2025 · Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Alaska Eskimo girl in Caribou Skin Parka fur beadwork unused vintage postcard at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products! Caribou Clothes is located in the small hamlet of Mountain View, nestled in the foothills of Southern Alberta, Canada. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Vintage Postcard - Alaskan Eskimo Girl - Caribou Skin Parka - Alaska - AK at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products! Download this stock image: Inuit woman wearing ceremonial amouti (parka). Check out our caribou skin parka selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our clothing shops. Hanna Sholl wears the caribou skin parka she helped construct as a member of Kodiak Alutiiq New Sewers Club, with sewers Cathy Cordry, Teri Schneider, Marya Halvorsen, and Susan Malutin. Pre-Owned. Caribou skin is used because the hollow hair follicles contain an air bubble; they also trap insulating air. kastatic. . Jul 1, 2024 · For the final comparison with the gut‐skin parkas, two fur parkas for men and one fur parka for women with pointed double hood roots were selected: A male parka of caribou (Kc. They would shed if you just looked at them. From Baker Lake, Eskimo Point and Hikoligjuaq, west of Hudson B Jun 19, 2024 · Material: Caribou skin, selected for its superior insulating properties and availability. The protein content of caribou vs. Each Caribou Clothes accessory, hand-tailored by skilled artisans, reflects our rustic area and has been styled for use in the "now" of today. Collected between 1962 and 1978. in 1970. Aug 19, 2021 · His parka —a hooded jacket invented by Eskimos—was made of caribou skin and worn with the fur inside. C $5. Sealskin Dec 21, 2011 · This Iglulik Inuit-made qulittuq (man’s parka) was produced in the early twentieth-century from thick caribou skins to withstand the cold winters of the central Arctic. The back of the parka has an amaut or pouch for carrying a baby. Every mushmush parka is custom made in Canada's Northwest Territories. The skin from the head of caribou will be used as the material for the hood, the skin from the belly will be used for the corresponding area on the parka, and so on They have slept under caribou skin blankets and have sheltered in caribou skin tents. Children continue to be commonly carried in this way in the eastern Arctic communities of Nunavut and Nunavik, but the garment is sometimes seen in the Northwest Territories, Greenland, Labrador, Russian Arctic and Alaska. The front has a man, brown on white, white hands, and three roundels [each with puki thongs in red cloth ties], two shoulder fringes of puki and red cloth. The pullover garment was hand-sewn with sinew. ALUTIIQ MUSEUM 215 Mission Road, Kodiak, Alaska 99615 | 844-425-8844 | alutiiqmuseum. Decorative parkas like It took two years to make a new caribou skin parka and more than 50 people helped. For survival here in winter, caribou skin (with hollow hair) is still the best protection. The thickness of caribou hair changes with the seasons, and skins needed for different purposes are obtained at specific times. Aug 9, 2024 · Qaliluk (qaliluk sg qaliluuk dual qaliluut pl in Yup'ik, qalilurrlugar in Cup'ig) is man's hoodless caribou-skin or reindeer-skin parka. Authentic and real hand-crafted Inuit clothes, made from the hide and fur of Caribou. This finely crafted and elaborately beaded Inuit tuilli, or woman’s inner parka, was made from caribou skin for the mother of a newborn baby. Nunatamiut Inupiaq (Inland Eskimo) Man’s Parka; circa 1915; Mackenzie River mouth, Inuvialuit Settlement Region; caribou hide/skin, caribou sinew Generally, parkas were distinguished by sex; where men’s parkas were cut straight across the hip (Figure 1 and 2), and women’s parkas were cut in a U-shape along the front and back. Inuit amauti or tuilli (woman’s parka) ca. Shearling will last for decades, but is heavier than reindeer/caribou, so a vest design was preferred e. The word “parka” is thought to come from the Nenets language, translating as “animal skin”. Kate Kyle/CBC. Girl’s caribou-skin parka, early 19th century (Inuit, West Greenland), 76 cm (© The Trustees of the British Museum, London). Oct 27, 2024 · A beaded caribou-skin parka, or atigi, part of the Nunavut Collection held at the Canadian Museum of Nature's campus in Gatineau, Que. The back was longer than the front to provide extra warmth when hunting and 1. Summer was much easier to accommodate, and most apparel was made from seal skin, which proved to be more light weight and water resistant. Both anorak and parka are hooded coats, originally worn in polar regions and made with seal or caribou skin. 70 Reindeer Skin Parkas Reindeer Skin Parka Course . First, they pack snow and ice tightly around the igloo to creat an insulating, wind-proof barrier. The Amauti is so much more than just a parka. – The parka is completed. Likewise, the parka jacket was also created to be a practical item of clothing. Comes in traditional or modernStyles include Nov 2, 2021 · His parka —a hooded jacket invented by Eskimos—was made of caribou skin and worn with the fur inside. If made they are more likely to be used in spring than in the dead of winter, and are usually worn without a heavy lining (just store-bought garments beneath). A modern down parka with faux-fur trim on the hood. Inuit parkas, traditionally made from caribou or seal skin, are masterfully designed to provide exceptional insulation. If you're behind a web filter, please make sure that the domains *. 0 bids · Time left 6d 3h +C $1. Apr 9, 2021 · The Inuit Amauti – The Sealskin Parka – Then and Now. Most clothes are still home-made, from the skins of animals killed for food, though modifications have been made of late. Eskimos use a variety of methods to stay warm in igloos. , caribou-skin tents), as well as nonmaterial contributions of caribou to identity, knowledge, and well-being (Oakes, 1992; Issenman, 1997; King et al. Her breakthrough idea stemmed from an astute observation: “Cutting a coat shape from caribou skin makes no sense at all. In addition to discussing the functional attributes of caribou skin clothing and means of clothing production, the author provides keen insights into the social and cultural aspects of Inuit clothing design with a sharp focus on ecology, social philosophy, and the cultural tenets of Inuit society. 27, 2024. Made from seal skin or caribou, the parka was made to protect the Inuit from the northern elements. Subject 1 (a). The bottom fringe was also made of caribou skin. Check out our caribou parka selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our clothing shops. org are unblocked. Each student signed the inside. 2k) Sale Price $203. Starting on September 6th, we are excited to offer a course on Caribou skin clothing introduction. kasandbox. Parkas and anoraks are staples of Inuit clothing, traditionally made from caribou or seal skin, for hunting and kayaking in the frigid Arctic. Collected on 5th Thule Expedition, 1921–1924 They have slept under caribou skin blankets and have sheltered in caribou skin tents. From this hamlet comes distinctively unique, supple sheepskin accessories. 00. In Kodiak, community volunteers and interns Sadie Coyle and Samantha Heglin, joined the sewing team. Helge Ingstad photo. This design provides a microclimate around the body, crucial 13. Boots (mukluks) made of caribou skin, sealskin, rabbit skin or muskox wool provide water and wind protection for the feet. By crafting parkas and inner garments from this material, they effectively trap heat while allowing moisture to escape. [13] Squirrel-skin parka (uulungiiq in Yup'ik) is a parka decorated with a fringe of squirrel bellies (uulungak). Insulated clothing, such as a caribou-skin parka, fur mukluks and anoraks, help protect the wearer from cold and wind. All combined together, this clothing was clearly an incredible engineering feat. [3] [15] Mar 13, 2018 · You might think the small seal- and caribou-skin parkas hung in the entrance hall of the Nunavut legislature this month belong to an earlier time—but they were actually worn by the children of Iqaluit resident Matty McNair, who curated the legislature’s new Inuit parka exhibit. A team of seamstresses supported by Kodiak’s 1960s Hand sewn caribou hide jacket - vintage hand beaded jacket - west coast Canada - leather beaded coat signed by maker - buck skin (13) $ 2,076. Feb 8, 2012 · Third Ensamble-Inuit caribou clothing comprised of inner and outer caribou hooded parka, caribou skin outer pants, caribou skin stockings work inside seal skin boots, and caribou skin mittens. He wore a caribou skin parka and polar bear britches. , not Raymond Hawley. [3] [15] Priced from $80. zoxh noit yyh icvo kiel hdeyls tzi sxuyy fwud jzz